tasting at HASR wine co.

Kelly and I went to a great tasting last week at HASR in Chinatown and had some decent value-driven California wines from Morgan and Bishop's Peak.  I keep forgetting the name of the guy who pours there on Tuesday and Friday nights but he is extremely nice, knowledgeable, and efficient.  The holy trinity of attributes for anyone working in a tasting room.

The 2011 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc was probably the star of the show with a surprisingly big body for the varietal and its clean, minerally, and old world flavor profile.   It is blended with small amounts Sauvignon Musque and Semillon as well as spends 6 months in mostly neutral oak to lend complexity and texture.   The 2011 Chardonnay from Bishop's Peak was lighter in body and color and had an extremely closed nose.  It had nice light clean citrus flavors but not much else to write home about.

BP's Pinot was temptingly priced at $20 and had a plump body with well-rounded tannins and true to the varietal rustic cherry flavors.  The Cabernet was also dominated by simple cherry notes on the front end that fell off too quickly.  It also had a bit too much oak and heat for me.  Finally, the Morgan rhone-style "cote du crow's" blend was much rounder and heavier on the palate with riper darker fruit.  There were some tertiary bitter subtle vinegary notes on the mid-palate that for some reason I was into.  
I would definitely recommend the free bi-weekly tastings at HASR.  And if you see a short dorky-looking haole scribbling tasting notes in the corner, say hi!

Hayman & Hill, Interchange, 2007, Santa Barbara County, California

I picked up a glass of this bombastic white at Morning Brew in Kailua last weekend in between the beach and the bookstore.  A while ago I remember H&H making a fairly decent low-priced Pinot, so I was intrigued when I saw it on the wine list.  Then when I saw they were pouring it for 6 bucks a glass, I said, "Screw coffee.  It's wine time!"
The Interchange is dark gold in color.  It's has a fairly complex but awkward nose of honey, banana, durian, algea, and heat.  It is mouth-coating, full-bodied, and almost like a desert wine in texture.  The flavor profile is dominated by honey lemon lozenge and round cantaloupe notes.  Although the acid is strong throughout, overall the flavor profile is a little clunky, cloying, as wells as sugary/bitter at the same time.  Maybe I should have stuck with the coffee?    

Alta Maria, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Santa Ynez Valley, California

The 2007 Alta Maria is an approachable yet complex enough effort that will satisfy the oenophiles who tend to lean away from California Cabs.  Its got a dark purple core with a hint of crimson translucence on the edges.  The nose is extremely generous with burnt sugar, maple bar, coffee liqueur, boysenberry, and a strange memory inducing scent of a lonely dark dusty old room from my childhood.  The maple translates well into the palate while embracing some dark dark dark black fruit flavors with smokey meat undertones.  It is medium-bodied with smooth sweet rounded out tannins from time napping in the bottle.  The Alta Maria has a pleasing syrupy/juicy body but avoids the fake sweetness found in a lot of California Cabs.  For under thirty bucks, this is an lively, tough as nails, varietally-correct to the core Cab that you can thank me for recommending later.

P.S. The roundness of these tannins feel about as good as Louis C.K. saying a certain taboo word.

      

Opolo, Summit Creek Zinfandel, 2011, Paso Robles, California

This Paso Robles Zin is deep deep red bordering on purple in the glass.  The nose is a crazy concoction of spice, heat, rosewater, graphite, and dark juicy berries.  The dark berry comes through on the initial taste as well but is wrapped up in a layer of sugar- coated tingly acidity.  This is a medium bodied effort with jalapeno pepper heat on the finish.  This wine is a little too sweet for me and relies too much on the front end of the palate to make a case for itself.  

Kunin, Roussanne, 2009, Central Coast, California

This is sleek too cool for school Roussanne from this up and coming Santa Barbara-based winery.  It is medium clear cloudy in color and has a nose of banana chips, pears, and honey on the nose.  The lovely pear/honey combo carries through on the flavor profile as well.  Surprisingly lean for a California white, this wine makes up for it in complexity and originality.  Citrus and olive oil cake round out the flavor palate.  A subtle background bitterness is good counterweight but might put this wine in the not for everyone category   That's okay.  More for me.      

Sanford, Pinot Noir - Vin Gris, 2011, Sta. Rita Hills, California

I just got back a few weeks ago from a wine tasting trip in the Santa Ynez Valley and was blown away by the quality, diversity, and consistency of wines I had.   The Syrahs were pure, tannic, and powerful.  The Grenaches were lighter but had layers of complexity and grace.  I loved the white Rhone blends more than most of the  Chardonnays I had.  The Pinots were clean, balanced, and expensive.  I had a few Cabs from Happy Canyon that rivaled anything I tasted on my trips to Walla Walla, Yakima, and Red Mountain.  Anyway, on to the review!  This rose is is electric hot pink almost appearing internally lit in color.  It flashy color is matched by its hedonistic nose of burnt marshmallow, watermelon, and simple syrup.  This wine is appealing both for it's freshness and depth of flavor.  It is rare to find a rose that is this true to its varietal.  This Pinot sings with flavors of dried strawberries and subtle earth.  It has weight on the palate, saline acidity, and a clean citrus finish.  It's juicy but still lean and dry.   This is another perfect island wine.  Hawaii needs less Moscato and more dry rose!  

Raymond, "R Collection" Chardonnay, 2011, California

This Chardonnay is light pale and more translucent than gold.  It is rather mass market in approach but has nice clean flavors.  I picked up kiwi, golden apple, and fresh glazed doughnut on the nose.  The front end of the palate was dominated by rock candy, very very light lemon, and even some crisp iceberg lettuce.   This wine was a little too sweet for me and cried out or acid and body.  It got me thinking about balance and how some might like this wine for avoiding falling into the overoaked category of entry level Chards.  But for me balance in and of itself isn't enough.
It's a fine line between subtlety and boredom.  Too often wines that are subtle and balanced to some are boring to me.  I like it when flavors that are seemingly disparate come together in ways that wake up my palate and open my mind.  Opposites attract in real life and often in wine too.  I like music and people that are awkward and confusing.  Why can't these things be in the same with wine?  Sorry Mr. R Collection Chard for going off.  This is more about me than you.  You are just fine.

Bonny Doon, "Contra" Old Vine Field Blend, 2009, Central Coast, California

The nose on this wine is a hearty mixture of cassis, black olives, tabasco, jerky, and lots of dry green spice like oregano.  Every once in a while, it's nice to get away from bright red fruit domination in a lot of red wine and the Contra delivered.  The dry spice rub carries through to the flavor profile as well along with the olive juice, dark plum, and subtle grippy tannins.  This is a light to medium bodied effort but with some serious flavors.   You know, like a young skinny thinking old wise man who furrows his brow when presented with a particularly difficult zen koan like question.  The acid is just barely present in this wine and lets the round fruit do the work on the front end.  The Contra is not super complex/layered but is unique and balanced in its approach.  Nothing like a value-driven cold night patio-pounder for the wine nerd in all of us!  I would pair this with lighter fare such as vegetarian Italian food or hearty brown stews.    

Vine Hill, Chardonnay, 2009, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

Dammit Vine Hill, I just can't quit you.  You went out of business in a shroud of mystery and then this random Hawaiian grocery store chain grabbed your entire inventory and I can't stop buying everything you have to offer.  Your Zin made me scream for joy and your Pinot left me crying in the corner.  Now it's time for you higher end Chard.
The Vine Hill is uniform medium gold in color.  The nose is dominated by chemical bretty poop with just a hint of spicy apple sauce.  I kept hoping the agent orange would blow off but it didn't.  I will say that there were some nice yellow apple notes on the flavor profile of this medium body wine.  Still I am such a nerdy smeller of wine, every single taste was tainted.  I don't think this bottle was corked and I do think something went wrong in the wine-making process or with the wine-making facility itself.  One shouldn't talk smack on the dead but this shit is still for sale and I care about my fellow island wine drinkers.  Seriously, you'd be better off spending a night alone on the KJ rez.

Guenoc, "Victorian Claret," 2010, North Coast California

Opaque, red in color, this Bordeaux-style blend has a pretty okay nose of slightly cooked red fruit, whipped cream, and fake maple syrup.  Red juicy juicy (but not jammy) fruit dominates the flavor profile along with a bit of smoke.  The mouth-feel is quite restrained compared to this Claret's strong aromatics.  This wine is best drunk quickly, as after about a sitcom-length time in the glass the heat completely takes over the nose.  A dry and rustic finish give the Guenoc some character not usually found in cheaper red blends from California.  Sorry, nothing too exciting today folks!

Kaena, Hapa Blanc, 2009, Santa Ynez Valley, California

Yeah I wanted to like this wine before I tried it but then I tried it and then I loved it and now I'm gonna tell you about it.  The Hapa Blanc is a Rhone-style blend consisting predominantly of Grenache Blanc along with Roussane.  Kaena is the baby of winemaker Hawaiian native turned California transplant, Mikael Sigouin.  Kaena is Hawaiian for "potential for greatness" and if the Hapa Blanc is any indicator, I believe Mikael has achieved his goal.  It is darker straw in color with slight orange highlights and a golden rim.  The nose moved from key lime pie to crushed rock to white chocolate almond bark to a brand new car smell with no traffic.

This wine is fluid fluid.  It swivels and sways and doesn't like to be pinned down over the few hours it hangs with you.  It disappears way too quickly and leaves you wanting more.  I got tastes of honey dew, honey, sliced and dew-kissed peaches, coconut and butterscotch that still ended dry.  But what I loved absolutely most about this wine was what was absent . . .   Citrus.  I didn't pick up any citrus on this wine!  Not like there is anything wrong with citrus in white wine but that the Hapa Blanc can be this complete and balanced without it is no doubt a feat.  With 100 cases produced a year, we are lucky to have access to this lovely wine on Oahu.  I can't wait to try to find the grenaches and grenache rose from Kaena when I hit up Santa Ynez in a few weeks.  Please pick up this wine if you can find it and if you don't like it, I'll put 15 bucks in your paypal.     

P.S. This woosh of roundness on the front end followed by the tingle of acidity on the finish reminds me of this love for smoking expressed in Jets to Brazil's "Sweet Avenue."  

this cigarette it could seduce

a nation with its smoke

crawling down my tired throat

scratch a part of me that's purring

softly stirring

P.P.S. Watch a great interview with Mikael on the Wine Down here.

Hook & Ladder, "The Tillerman," 2009, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California

This wine shouts from the rooftops, "I am from California!"  It's big, bold, juicy, and acts like there is no other way to be.  The color of this Bordeaux-style blend is uniform opaque purple up to the tiny shiny purple pink edges of the glass.  It has a surprisingly soft nose of sandalwood  rose potpourri, heat, and slightly unpleasant floor cleaner chemical edge.  The Tillerman is worrisome at first with the overwhelming sweet tart candy notes that repeatedly slap you in the face on the front end.  That being said the sugar ride is cut short by a satisfyingly dry pucker of cranberry and pomegranate on the mid-pallet.  The tannins are soft to non-existent demonstrating that this blend is best enjoyed now or in the next couple years.  A nice bit of pure cherry like the top of sundae lingers on the finish.  Overall, not a too bad choice for a kid with a sweet tooth that he is trying to keep in check.           

Haraszthy, Zinfandel, 2009, Amador County, California

I tasted this value-driven Zin at a fun little meet up group at Zia's Caffe on the windward side of Oahu.  Despite the extreme windy and rainy weather, the tasting was still held outside.  We had to alternate holding down the canopy to keep it from blowing across town.  Given the weather, the Haraszthy Zin seemed to outshine the whites and lighter-bodied reds that were being poured.  I found this wine fairly light in color for the varietal with a purple to red core pushing out to more translucent edges.  The nose was fairly giving with blueberry, spicy red pepper notes, as well as hints of top soil.  The flavors were dominated by light plum and concord grape.  Though coming in at a whopping 15.6% alcohol content, the wine-makers do a rather dangerously good job of containing the heat.  This is a light-bodied, stream-lined style but still is a little one note in its approach.  The short length also leaves something to be desired.  Still it's easy going and for 15 bucks delivers varietally-corrects flavors.  Pair with an Amy's pizza and the latest episode of Top Chef and you'll be sleeping well that night.       

R.H. Phillips, Toasted Head Chardonnay, 2011, California

Gary Vaynerchuk was right about this wine.  I've watched all 1,000 episodes of his eponymous show and guest what, I've come to trust the guy.  Kelly said the toasted head was the color of  girl pee and I don't really know how that is differentiated from other types of pee but it was pretty light for an oaky chard. The nose is pleasant with notes of dandelion, edamame, canned peaches, and lime.  This is a relatively simple yet balanced effort.  It has notes of sweet almond and coconut milk and pure citrus on the mid-palate.  The oak is present but doesn't beat you into submission.  There is also a seamlessness to the toasted head that I appreciate.    I can't really remember the last time I had a wine this good for 10 bucks.

Vine Hill, Gatos Locos Pinot Noir, 2007, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

You can't go home again.    I though I found a secret little steal a few weeks back.   R. Field had probably purchased the entire Gatos Locos catalog when Vine Hill Winery went under and were selling bottles for half price.  The Zin was great but this Pinot most certainly was not.  It was dark in color and dark red fruits dominated the nose with hints of spice, salinity, and a shit ton of sugar.   The ripeness of the fruit really overwhelmed the flavor profile.  It tasted like cherry fruit filling of cheap danish or cranberry juice concentrate sans water.  The oak imparted some decent sandlewood undertones but the finish was quite short.  At 14.3% alcohol, I think these grapes were picked a too late.  Maybe you can't find a better Pinot than this for less than 10 bucks.  But if you only got 10 bucks, what the hell are you doing looking for Pinot anyway?  With the new year just around the corner, you'd be better off with a 6 pack of this.

Kendall Jackson, Jackson Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Knights Valley, Sonoma, California

This wine reminds me of two major problems that I have been having with myself lately.  One that I am a vegetarian in a land of Kalua Pork and Loco Moco and this wine desperately cries out for something like a blood-red rare steak to be paired with.  And two that I don't make nearly enough money to enjoy wines like this on a regular basis.  Oh well, thank god for a few well-endowed family members who like to bring me wine on their visits to Hawaii.  

This cab has a cherry red rim with a deep opaque purple black core and shows off some long ass legs on the swirl.  The nose sings dried cherry, dutch cocoa, mint, and at least at first a whole lot of heat.  Fresh out of the bottle, this wine has extremely dry, puckery tannins.  After settling in down in the glass for a bit the tannins get more dusty revealing complex layer of flavor.  I tasted black cherry soda, black pepper, and tar.  So many black flavors I couldn't stop thinking about Jay-Z's huge comeback album in 2003.  

On day two, the heat began to blow off and the fruit started to pop.  I got really ripe big blueberries and wet plum with underlying structural notes of clean oak and espresso.  This Cab comes from Knights Valley which is the warmest AVA in Sonoma rubbing right up against Napa.  The 2007 harvest was an ideal growing season as it was long, smooth, and warm.  Considering the commercial nature of the winery, the heat of the year, and the inevitable push to appeal to a broad base of drinkers, the winemakers demonstrate a real sense of restraint.  

P.S. Lately, as a Willamette Valley ex-pat without access to mom and pop tasting rooms, I have been digging these slightly higher-end smaller production offerings from the mega-commercial wineries.  Does that make me a bad person?     

sonoma pics

Ridge's Lytton Springs Vineyards

bad-ass old gnarly old man zin vines probably over 100 years old

good values at David Coffaro Vineyards and Ali memorabilia

ham-infused water at LaSallete

i don't remember this picture being taken

Gina, Chardonnay, 2009, Napa Valley, California

I found Gina hiding on the bottom corner shelf at the gourmet section of the grocery store one unbearably hot afternoon in Honolulu just as the vog was settling in for the week.  It was gonna be another hot humind winter and I was looking for something cheap and cool to help settle my nerves.
Okay, enough with the hard-boiled bullshit.
This second label from Flora Springs Winery is a full-bodied fruit-driven Chardonnay that the folks at R. Field have for some reason marked down from 19 to 9 bones.  It's relatively light in color for what it delivers on the nose and palate   I smelled banana chips, fluffernutter, sour melon, and a  touch of soapiness.  The flavor profile on the front end was rich and fruity.  Think banana nut bread and pineapple settling into more round honey and jammy orange notes as it had time to settle in the glass.  The juice hit the edges of my tongue but never could quite find the middle.  This is a quick dessert in a glass without being an actual dessert wine.  If you are looking for something outgoing and extroverted (if not easily forgettable) that isn't asking to be paired with a meal, then Gina might just be for you.       

P.S. Letterpress art by my old pen-pal Rebecca at Rar Rar Press.  Lyrics by my main man, Blake.

Beckmen, Marsanne, 2006, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley, California

This Marsanne has a medium yellow slightly cloudy color.  The nose is not crazy open but I got hits of pink rubber ball, peach, and sweet cream cheese frosting.  Kelly picked up "dainty little flowers."  This wine had a nice waxy/oily texture that I found true to the Rhone varietal.  Butterscotch, peach, and a cool minerality dominate the initial flavor profile.  A soft acidity shivers its way down the front end and rounds out on the mid-pallet.  The finish somehow reminded me of green melon scooped up into tiny little yummy balls.  Yummy!  Marsanne and Roussanne, with their cool, classy not so in your face flavors, have been rocking my world lately.  This domestic effort does a good job of staying true to the restrained nature of the varietal while adding just a little touch of ripe California love.  Lately I have been finding that the domestic efforts of Rhone's other major white wine,Viognier, to be a little too fruit-forward and flashy for my liking.  If you find one that is more balanced, please let me know!

P.S. Kelly and I had this wine at Du Vin, in Honolulu's Chinatown.  The front room is super old school with lots of dark wood, the little patio in the back is hella romantic, and they got a nice well rounded selection of wines.  Tuesday all non-reserve bottles are half-off all night long!  How can you beat that?        

Vine Hill, Gatos Locos Zinfandel, 2006, Mokelumne River, California

This is another rad find from the folks at R. Field gourmet section of Hawaii's Foodland.  Vine Hill is a Santa Cruz based winery that went out of business sometime earlier this year.  Gatos Locos is their second label wine.  Very little information is available about the winery on the internet.  All I know is that R. Field is selling a number of their entries for at least a 50% discount.  This 2009 effort comes from the Mokelumne River AVA near the town of Lodi and I picked it up for $12 compared to the mid-twenty original cover price.  Even though this particular wine is not labeled “old vine,” farmers have been growing Zinfandel grapes in this region for the past 120 years.  The Gatos Locos has a dark opaque purple color with browning on the edges.  The nose is dominated by violets, black pepper, menthol, with an underlying milky sweetness.  Basically not much fruit on the nose.  This Zin is far from flabby but has a soft, plush Merlot-like body.  More candied grape almost big league chew flavors and plum on the profile with hits of black pepper and creamy body.  But compared to cheaper Zins, the fruit on the body avoids getting fake sweet.  Age has definitely mellowed out the tannins but the Gatos Locos does lack a bit of focus and structure.  My favorite California Zinfandels tend to have more of an overwhelming body than this while still retaining terroir-driven nuances.  Still at this price point, for a domestic Zin with this purity of fruit the Mokelumne River is hard to beat.