Saturday, April 17, 2010

Edmunds St. John "Rocks and Gravel," 2005, California

This southern Rhone style blend has light glowing translucent red color like an expensive California pinot. The rocks and gravel is a blend of Grenache, Mouvedre, and Syrah. Sweet cherry, plum, cedar, mossy wet soil and a bit of gameyness typify the nose. This guys got a little bit of bottle age and the tannins have softened out nicely but there is still a nice lift in the middle. This is a medium bodied wine with a silkiness to the texture. It is aslo remarkably clean given the hint of funkiness on the nose. I like its delicateness and elegance but perhaps it’s bordering on being a little too unobtrusive. The fruit is pure and not too sweet but I also found it a little buried at first. Cedar really dominates the flavor profile with a hints of tar, fresh herbs, and malt-ball candy. This wine is appealing to me for its balance of terroir-like flavors, purity of fruit, overall structure, and varietal correctness. I think decanting would be a good idea, as the fruit became more foregrounded as the wine was open for a few days. Fresh Strawberry and concentrated cherry juice became a lot more noticeable. I found this wine in the orphan bin at Wild Oats for 13 bucks and that is a steal. It normally retails at about 20 and that’s not so bad either!

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